Château de Meursault – tasting 2015s and 2016s whites
By Steen Öhman September 20, 2018
Château de Meursault was not doing well for years and the reputation was to say the least somewhat lacklustre.
In 2012 changes began when Olivier Halley took over the estate, vineyards and buildings. Olivier Halley not only took over the Château de Meursault he also took over the Chateau de Marsanney including the vineyards in the northern part of Burgundy.
Olivier Halley has a background in the supermarket sector – as one of the owners of Carrefour – previously Promodès – before he entered the wine business in Burgundy.
The acquisition was substantial, and it was clearly a big and large challenge to raise the quality of these wines, and also to restore the historical buildings associated with the estates.
Olivier Halley quickly had a new team ready at the estates – with some of the existing people still there, whereas others are new in this setting. In this article I will mainly cover Château de Meursault.
New managment and new ideas at Château de Meursault
It is pretty clear that Olivier Halley have great ambitions with these mighty estates, and also that these ambitions can not be realised within a few years.
That being said the few wines I have tasted from the resent vintage does indicate that big steps have already been taken to ensure higher quality, and that the guide line for a future style of the wines are being laid.
Manager of the wine estate is Stéphane Follin-Arbelet, who already has optimized the work at the estate, and the wines at Chateau de Meursault are still made by Emmanuel Escutenaire who is doing an excellent job in the celler.
A lot of adjustments have been done to optimize quality to where we are now – amongst others they have moved to using small cases for harvesting, using thermo-regulated tanks for top cuvées, thermo-regulated stainless-steel for the others. Before the harvest took more than 2 weeks, now they are just using 7 days.
So in reality another world – and certainly another game when the wines are being produced. I was therefore exited to taste the wines, and to evaluate the results so far.
Lets start with the whites first
The white sample – 2015 and 2016
I had the opportunity to taste a selection of 2015 and 2016s from bottle, to present the estate, the wines and the resent vintages.
The style of the house is quite clear and forward and given by the oak used (mainly Francois Frères). This does set a prominent and recognisable style for the estate, and without being too dominant or prominent.
Château de Meursault, Bourgogne Clos du Chateau 2016
The frost in 2016 was hard – only half the crop at Château de Meursault. The Clos de Chateau – 8 ha in total only gave 25 hl/ha – a intense and rather darkish yellow wine given the rather low yields. In the nose quite perfumed and exotic berries – yellow orchard fruits with a good mineral base. A intense and powerful wine given it’s level.
(Drink from 2022) – Good+ (86 – 87p) – Tasted 07/06/2018
Château de Meursault, Meursault Clos de la Grands Charrons 2016
The Meursault Clos de la Grands Charrons from a 1 ha Clos inside this fine village vineyard. Quite cool for the vintage, lovely fresh orchard fruits with a lovely citrus driven mineral nose. On the palate lovely depth and power, with a cool restraint character. A tremendous wine for the vintage.
(Drink from 2026) – Very Good (90 – 91p) – Tasted 07/06/2018
Château de Meursault, Meursault Perrieres 2015
The Meursault Perriere is showing fine composure for the vintage. Bouquet quite restrained for the vintage, with some exotic fruits – good energy for the vintage. On the palate we find a lovely balance – and a good energy.
(Drink from 2022) – Very Good+ (90 – 92p) – Tasted 07/06/2018
Château de Meursault, Meursault Les Charmes Dessus 2015
The Les Charmes Dessus is quite a step up from the Meursault Perrieres – is from two of the top-end plots in Meursault Charmes covering 1 ha. This is a quite unique wine for the vintage, offering both good depth and very fine balance for the vintage. Impressive energy and quite intense – well done!
(Drink from 2026) – Fine+ (92 – 94p) – Tasted 07/06/2018